Cleaning my vintage Harris loom

Having rescued a loom from the skip (see my previous post) I now want to clean and restore it back to working order. First steps are to clean all of the metalwork and remove any rust; clean, lightly sand and wax the wooden frame; and replace the fabric on the rollers as it is in very bad condition.

The loom is a 16-shaft table top loom. On each of the 16 shafts there are about 120 heddles (made of thin wire)…and on at least 4 of the shafts these heddles are very rusty.

Rusty metalwork

Each shaft is made of four metal bars that are held together with screws. Working on one shaft at a time, I undid the screws at one end of the shaft, removed one of the metal bars and then removed the heddles individually.

Heddles removed from the loom, ready to be cleaned

Using a small container, I added warm water and a little bicarbonate of soda and placed the heddles in the solution allowing them to soak for a few minutes.

Cleaning solution for the metalwork

Taking one heddle at a time, I gently scrubbed it with a scourer, to remove the grime and any rust, and dried it with a paper towel. The wire heddles are quite fragile and bend easily, so I needed to handle them carefully.

Once clean and dry I could slide each one back on to the shaft and screw the metal bar back in place.

Close up detail of heddles on the shaft
Three of the four shafts that I have cleaned so far

I have cleaned four shafts so far and have decided to initially set up the loom as a 4-shaft loom, while I learn how to use it. I’ll clean the remaining 12 shafts later on.

The next job was to replace the fabric on the three rollers. You can see from the image below how worn they are.

The fabric on the rollers is very worn

I removed the old fabric from the rollers and used it as a template for the replacement pieces. I looked through a small stash of old fabric I have and found an old cotton sheet that had a lovely quality.

Using the old fabric as a template to cut replacement pieces

After cutting out three pieces, I decided to add eyelets to give the fabric more strength where the string is tied.

Eyelets added to the fabric for strength

I chose 5.5mm eyelets in chrome. Using a punch I made seven holes, evenly spaced, along the edge of the fabric. The eyelets come in two parts – I placed the larger piece at the bottom, put the hole in the fabric over it, placed the smaller eyelet piece on top (to make a sandwich) and hammered them in place using the eyelet tool.

Once I’ve replaced the string they’ll be ready to fix on to the loom.

Fixing eyelets in the fabric

A Harris weaving loom destined for the skip!

Harris loom label

During an annual visit to the Prism textile exhibition in Mile End, a conversation was overheard…’I’ve got a loom in my car, do you know anyone who would like it? I’ve rescued it from a college in South London that’s closing down it’s textile weaving course – the loom was heading to the skip!’ Oh!! I spun round to see the woman speaking to the invigilators. ‘Sorry, what did you say?’, I asked her. She said the loom was in the back of her car and that she needed to find a home for it, ideally today. I took a look at it and thought hmm, that’s big, but…could I…should I?!

She said it was a 16 shaft table-top loom (which I have never used before). Many questions were spinning around my head…’Where would I put it? Do I need it? Do I REALLY need it?’ I thought, I may not NEED it but I definately don’t want to see it end up in a skip. She was keen to find it a new home that day, so I said if she could find someone, then great they should have it, but if not I would be very interested.

I spent the next hour wandering around the exhibition while the woman had various conversations with possible takers. She then came over to me and said ‘I think you’re the winner!’

Prism textile exhibition in Mile End

The following weekend I drove to her studio in Manor Park, east London, and collected the loom. It was large and awkward but did just about fit in to the back of my car. It was heavy and the metal shafts and chains were clanking about – a couple of pieces came loose and dropped off.

First look at the loom

Once home I was able to assess the condition of the loom and see what repairs and restoration was needed. It looked like it had sat in a corner of a textile room for years, gathering dust, grime and rust, every surface felt grubby to touch.

Chains holding the shafts

The fabric on the three rollers was ripped and worn, the wooden frame was dusty, with cup ring marks and paint splashes but otherwise it looked solid. I noticed the reed didn’t look like it belonged to the loom as it had been packed with foam and newspaper, so this is likely to need replacing.

Worn fabric and heddle padding
Shaft levers, each one is numbered

The next step is to take it apart and begin the long cleaning process…

Mandala mosaic garden table

When I went to a local junk shop to buy a mid-century sideboard, I spotted another glass-top garden table. I do love these. I don’t think they are much to look at in their original state but they are perfect for adding a touch of mosaic decoration!

As the table was circular, I wanted to create a mandala-style design.

I began by placing tiles around the edge of the table to create a border, varying the colours with each row. I then located the centre of the table, divided the circle into eight segments and began to fill out the pattern; playing with different shapes, sizes and colours to develop contrast and balance in the pattern.

I always like to use broken mirror in my work; I love the way light reflects on the broken pieces. The effect is magnified when the table is in the garden as it mirrors its surroundings and twinkles in the sunlight.

Once I’d finished cutting the mirror pieces and positioning all the mosaic tiles, I used a tile adhesive to stick each piece down.

The next step was to grout the tiles. I prefer to use a dark grey grout, rather than white, to give a dramatic contrast against the colourful tiles.

I used a powder grout that when mixed with water becomes water and frost resistant. I mixed it to a slightly fluid solution and used a palette knife, making sure the grout filled all of the gaps.

Once the grout had begun to set I used a damp cloth to wipe over the tiles to clean off the excess. The grout was left to dry overnight and then I polished the tiles using a clean cloth and scraped off any excess grout from the edges of the tiles.

This is the finished table…

Mid-century sideboard

In our design studio we’ve been looking to replace a rather large storage unit with something smaller. The room doubles up as a work space and a guest bedroom but space is of a premium. The old piece of furniture we wanted to replace, although useful, did take up too much space and was a good excuse to hoard ‘stuff’ that didn’t really need to be there. So we wanted to find something smaller, that was cheap and we could ‘do up’.

In the local area, there are a large number of secondhand, house-clearance shops that I regularly browse around. We visited one of these shops that has a huge amount of furniture stacked floor to ceiling. And it’s here where we found our mid-century sideboard.

original-sideboard1

The top section had two shelves (which I took off to paint). The bottom sliding cupboard had shelves on the left and three drawers on the right.

original-sideboard2

I began by mixing a chalk paint solution using plaster of paris and grey emulsion. I lightly sanded down the furniture and applied the paint to the back and sides.

Once that had dried I pasted wallpaper on to the top section and front cupboard door. The back cupboard door and drawer fronts were also painted in a chalk paint solution using colours to compliment the wallpaper.

As we’ll put the printers on the bottom shelf we drilled a large hole in the back to feed the cables through.

This is the finished piece…

final-cupboard1

…and the drawers…

final-cupboard2

…and in situ…

final-cupboard3

We love it!

Re-upholstered 1950s kitchen stools

original-kitchen-stools

I recently bought a couple of 1950s stools from a local junk shop. I love this style of furniture as its simple, robust and very functional. The stools were structurally very solid, but obviously the upholstery was in need of some updating! These are the simple steps I took to reupholster them.

seat-removed

The first step was to remove the drop-in seat. To do this there were four simple wooden pegs that spin around to lock/unlock the top from the base. Once lifted off the next step was to remove the old fabric.

remove-old-cover

On newer pieces of furniture fabric is usually stapled in place. I used a staple remover and pliers to carefully remove all of them. With some reupholstery projects it is often a good idea to keep the old fabric to use as a template for cutting the new fabric; but as the shape of these seats were very simple it wasn’t necessary.

cut-foam-to-size

The next step was to cut a new piece of foam. The 1950s stool generally has a thin foam seat. However, this isn’t always as comfortable, especially if you’re planning on using it for more than occasional use. The foam I used was 1.5″ thick and was pre-cut to a square shape. I then drew around the seat with a black marker pen and cut around the corners with scissors. As an alternative to scissors you could always use an electric bread knife, which is more useful for thicker foam.

heavy-duty-glue

I used a strong adhesive spray to fix the foam to the seat, which I did outside in the garden. As the spray is very sticky I put down a plastic sheet under the seat before spraying.

cut-fabric-to-size

The next step was to cut a new piece of fabric. I positioned the seat on top of the fabric and cut around it leaving a border of approximately 2″.

attach-fabric

The next step was to attach the fabric. I always work on the edge furthest away from me as I can use my body to push against to create a consistent tension when pulling and stapling the fabric.

I put my first staple in the edge directly opposite me (i.e. the ‘north’ position), folding the fabric over and placing one staple in the middle about 1/2″ from the edge. I turned the seat 180 degrees (so that ‘south’ was at the top) and pulled the fabric tight and placed one staple in the middle. I then repeated this process for the ‘east’ and ‘west’ of the seat, giving me four staples to anchor the fabric in place.

Beginning from one of the middle staples, I then pulled and smoothed the fabric while stapling along the edge working towards each corner, leaving about 1″ away from the corner. I repeated this step until I had stapled along all four edges.

trim-excess-fabric

I then stapled the corners and trimmed off any excess fabric to prevent the corners from being too bulky and finally trimmed off any excess fabric from along the edges.

completed-stools

I put the drop-in seat back on the base and fixed it in place. These are my finished stools.

workspace

The stool is a perfect fit for my little creative work space.